Syria: An excursion to the axis of evil

If one seeks to escape the hoards of tourists that swarm every summer then there is always a simple solution- go somewhere the Department of Foreign Affairs advises you not to. Diplomats are hardly known for their sense of adventure in any case, much preferring the babble of cautious conversation interspersed with Ferrero Rocher. In discovering Syria one must leave all preconceived ideas at the border and come prepared to find a few surprises in a country commonly called the ‘Cradle of Civilisation’ – not surprising considering Syria can trace its history all the way back to 10,000 B.C.

But firstly the question any parent will ask, is it safe? Syria is perhaps one of the safest countries in the Middle East in which to travel. Crime is virtually non-existent as it is considered shameful and is severely punished, as Syria’s human rights record clearly testifies. Political demonstrations do take place, typically after Friday prayers and they can occasionally turn violent but this violence is never directed at tourists. Visitors are made feel extremely welcome in Syria, strangers constantly call out in the street “Welcome to Syria!”, and they mean it. It is not unusual to be invited into a local household for an evenings or even a full weekends hospitality. Syrians take pride in their guests and will go out of their way to accommodate them. Women in Syria need not wear a headscarf though to avoid unwanted attention from local men it is advised to do so.

Damascus is a city of over 6 million souls and the bustling inner city reflects this. It is a city where some travelers come to stay a few days and end up spending a couple of weeks, such is the thriving local café scene where people drift away many hours playing backgammon whilst drinking shay (tea) and puffing on a hookah pipe: a type of water pipe which is served up with flavoured tobacco ranging from peach to apple to cappuccino. The Souq in Damascus is one of the world’s oldest and is the center of a hive of activity. It throbs with locals throughout the day and one can get lost in its many alleys of hundreds of stalls selling anything from cumin and spices to leather and herbal medicines. Inside the souq is the Umayyad Mosque which has a chequered history to say the least. Beginning its life as a Greek temple it then became a Roman temple and later a Christian church. After the Crusades it was a church and a mosque at the same time and nowadays it is solely a mosque though Christian drawings are still in evidence on the walls inside. It also contains the grave of John the Baptist and is one of the few major mosques in the Islamic world where non-Muslims are allowed to enter. Also to see in Syria is Crac du Chevaliers, described by T.E. Laurence ( of Arabia ) as “perhaps the best preserved and wholly admirable castle in the world”. The castle was built by the Order of the Knights of St. John between 1142 to 1271 and it stands on a mountain with commanding views of the surrounding tundra. During the Crusades Crac du Chevalier held a garrison of over 4,000 troops and it still stands today in an untarnished manner. A torch is a particularly useful tool for exploring the many darkened rooms and tunnels that run throughout the castle.

Perhaps the highlight of a visit to Syria is the Roman ruins of the ancient city of Palmyra. Dating from the mid-1st century Palmyra was used by the Romans to link Persian and Mediterranean caravan routes. A main feature of the site today is the Temple Of Bel, a Hellenistic temple from which a long colonnaded street extends. The temple itself is preserved magnificently as are the nearby Roman amphitheatre and senate which the political masters of the day used to collect taxes from passing caravans. Palmyra is overlooked by a citadel located high on a nearby hill from which the views of the ancient city are best appreciated at sunset when the Roman columns and buildings glow in yellow and orange hues.

A trip to Syria certainly is off the beaten track but the country and the people there are well worth at least a week as part of an extended Middle East tour. For those with more time on their hands Damascus is an established place for students to live for the summer whilst learning Arabic or just lazing around making new friends and living to a slower pace of life.

Finally it is worth noting that as there is no Syrian embassy in Ireland Irish citizens do not need to obtain a visa in advance. However, if you wanted to combine a visit there with a trip to Lebanon you will need a multiple entry visa for Syria as the Lebanese-Israeli border is firmly shut.